Round or full face
Rectangular, square or cat eye. Angles give definition where the face is soft, and a frame slightly wider than your cheekbones lengthens rather than widens.
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There is one thing that matters about a pair of sunglasses and it is not the shape. Everything else on this page is about the shape, because that is what you came for. This first part is a bit worth thirty seconds.
A dark lens is not the same thing as a protective lens, and the difference runs the wrong way. Tinted glass makes your pupils open wider, because that is what pupils do when the light drops. If the lens is only colored and not filtering, those wider pupils let more ultraviolet through than your bare eyes would have in the same sunlight.
Columbia's retina service puts it directly. Lenses that are simply colored and do not block UV leave you open to eye damage.
What to look for on a listing
UV400, or 100 percent UVA and UVB. Those two labels mean the same thing, and either one is what you want. If a listing does not say, assume it does not have it.
The part people skip is that UV also reaches the eyelid, which is some of the thinnest skin on the body and somewhere nobody puts sunscreen. Eyelid tumors are associated with greater UV exposure, and skin cancer on deeper skin tends to get found later than it should.
The rule is contrast. Round frames on an angular face, angular frames on a round one.
Rectangular, square or cat eye. Angles give definition where the face is soft, and a frame slightly wider than your cheekbones lengthens rather than widens.
Round, oval or aviator. Curves soften a defined jawline instead of doubling it.
Most shapes work. Pick by how much of your face you want covered rather than by rule.
Bottom heavy frames and aviators. Anything that carries weight low balances a narrower chin.
A frame that slides down your nose stops protecting you the moment it moves.
The arms should sit level without pinching behind the ears. The bridge should hold the weight without leaving marks. And the lens should sit close enough that light is not coming in around the top and sides, which is where most of it gets in on a bright day.
Bigger frames cover more, with one catch. Columbia notes that people wearing large frames often push them down the nose because they feel over-covered, which undoes the benefit. Buy the biggest frame you will actually keep pushed up.
Polarized is not the same as UV protected. This is the single most common mix-up in the category. Polarization cuts glare bouncing off flat surfaces like water, wet road and car hoods. It does nothing for UV. A lens can be one, the other, both or neither, so check for both.
Tint color changes contrast, not protection. Grey keeps colors true and is the safe all-round choice. Brown and amber lift contrast, which helps in variable light. Green sits between the two.
Darkness is a comfort setting. It tells you nothing about what the lens is filtering.
Not necessarily. The UV filter is one of the cheapest parts of a lens, and a well made inexpensive pair can block as much as a designer one. Price buys optical clarity, durability and the name on the arm.
No, and that is the mistake worth remembering. Darkness controls brightness. The UV filter is invisible and separate. A pale lens with UV400 protects you better than a black lens without it.
No. Grey, brown and green filter the same UV if they carry the same rating. Color is about contrast and comfort.
UV passes through cloud, so yes on a bright grey day. Snow, water and pale sand all bounce it back up at you too, which is why glare from below catches people out.
Most opticians will test a pair on a photometer in a couple of minutes, usually for nothing. Worth doing before a holiday rather than after.
Yes. Melanin in the iris gives some protection against light coming through the pupil, and it does nothing for the cornea, the lens, or the eyelid skin around your eye. Those are exposed regardless.
In that order, because the second one is the fun part and the first one is the important one.
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